6-Day Halter Top
The 5-Petal Flower Edition
This halter top is a collaboration between Betty McKnit and Jacq of Yarns. After making her viral 6-Day Star Blanket, I saw a lot of possibilities in Betty’s trademark stitch pattern. I feel so lucky that she was open to work with me to design this pattern!
My initial idea was a complicated dress with multiple pieces, involving seams and lots of loose ends to weave in. Betty was able to find elegance and simplicity in the shapes we were creating, so the 6-Day Halter Top was born! I love how this top is worked in one piece with no seams. With the right skeins of yarn, you could finish this top with just 10(!) ends to sew in. It also offers plenty of support, featuring a thick strap embedded into the fabric (as opposed to attaching a new yarn to the finished piece) and optional shaping for fuller busts.
This version of the pattern starts with my signature 5-Petal Flower Granny Square. It’s the perfect blend of crochet stitches from our two aesthetics. Rows are worked along 3 sides of the granny square to form the neckline. Next, the strap is created with foundation single crochets and worked in the round. The rest of the top is worked in rows to achieve the right length and width of the top, before a delicate baby scalloped edge is added to complete the piece. Did I also mention it’s totally made to measure and designed to fit busts up to 60 inches (90cm) and beyond?
Betty released her own version of the 6-Day Halter Top that uses her 6-Day Granny Square. This is a great variation to highlight fancy yarn with a nice gradient or color variegation—or simply if you want a quick and easy start to your project. Find her pattern version here.
Be sure to share your progress and finished work with us! Tag @jacqofyarns and @bettymcknit on IG and TikTok, using the hashtag #6DayHalter.
Level: Easy
US Crochet Terminology
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Yarn in 2 contrasting colors: fingering - light worsted weight recommended (#2-4)
Flower color: ~50 yds or 40 m
Main Color:
Overbust up to 36” - 300-500 yds/275-460 m
36-46” - 456-650 yds/411-640 m
46”-56” - 600-800 yds/550-732 m
56”+ 800-1000 yds/7332-914 m
Lighter yarns will require more yardage, while heavier weight yarns will require less
Optionally, mix different color yarns for a striped or scrappy effectHook needed to achieve desired gauge (if in doubt, use the suggested hook for your yarn)
Hook needed to achieve desired gauge (if in doubt, use the suggested hook for your yarn)
Stitch markers
Needle to weave in ends
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The 6-Day Halter Top is designed to fit with zero ease, with fit adjustments available for the neckline, overall length, and arm holes. This pattern is made to measure using the following measurements to ensure the proper fit:
Overbust measurement: Measure around your back, under your arms, and the flat part of your chest, above the fullest part of your bust.
Head measurement: Measure around the fullest part of your head, where a hat would normally sit.
Bust measurement: Measure around your back, under your arms, and the fullest part of your chest.
Waist Measurement: Measure the narrowest part of your waist.
Length: The desired length of your top, from the neckline to the waist.
To get a precise fit, make a gauge swatch using the 6-Day Tranquility Stripe. You can use this to help calculate the final measurements of the top.Description text goes here -
Description text goes hereAbbreviations & Symbols
6DKB: 6-Day Kid Blanket
beg: beginning
bet: between
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dec dc2tog: decrease double crochet two together
dec dc3tog: decrease double crochet three together
dc3tog: double crochet three together cluster
dc2tog: double crochet two together cluster
fsc: foundation single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
m: marker
pm: place marker
rep: repeat
sc: single crochet
sc3tog: single crochet three together
sk: skip
sl st: slip stitch
sp(s): space(s)
st(s): stitch(es)
yo: yarn over
( ) Work instructions in parentheses in the same st or sp.
[ ] Repeat everything within the brackets the indicated number of times.
* indicates beginning of repeat
< > Stitch counts
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dec dc2tog: [yo, pull up a loop in the next st, pull through two loops] twice. yo and pull through all loops on the hook.
dec dc3tog: [yo, pull up a loop in the next st, pull through two loops] three times, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook.
dc3tog (cluster): yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, [yo, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through two loops] 2 times. yo and pull through 4 loops.
dc2tog (cluster): yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through two loops, yo and pull through 3 loops.
fsc: insert hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through one loop, yo and pull through 2 loops
sc3tog: pull up a loop in each of the next 3 sts, yo and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.
Ch 3 at the beginning of round/row counts as 1 dc, unless indicated otherwise.
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About the Row/Round Numbers
In order to provide consistency across all 6-Day pattern variations, the rows/rounds are numbered 2-7 to correspond to the original 6-Day Kid Blanket. The cluster rows are always Row or Round 2 and 3, the dc rows are always Row or Round 5 and 6, and the sc rows are always Row or Round 4 and 7.
You’ll pick up different sections of this pattern in sequence with the 6-Day Crochet sequence of stitches. We guide you along the way, and it all makes sense.Item description
Let's start crocheting!
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Let's start crocheting! 〰️
Part 1: 5-Petal Flower Granny Square
Round 1: Ch 1, 10 sc into ch 4 ring, sl st to first st, turn. <10 sc>
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout), dc in same st, dc in next st, ch 1 (do not sk next st), [2 dc in next st, dc in next st, ch 1 (do not sk next st)] 4x, sl st to top of ch 3, turn. <5 petals, 15 dc, 5 ch 1 sps>
Round 3: Ch 5 (counts as first dc, ch 2), [sk ch-1 sp, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, ch 2] 4x, sk ch-1 sp, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off. Turn. <5 petals, 20 dc, 5 ch-2 sps>
Round 4: With main color, [sc in ch-2 sp, just after a 4 dc petal, 3 dc in ch-1 sp in round 2 (working over ch-2 sp from round 3), sc in same ch-2 sp, just before next 4 dc petal, ch 3, sk 4 dc] 5x, sl st to first sc, turn. <25 sts, 5 ch-3 sps>
Round 5: For this round only, treat each ch-3 sp as 3 sts. Ch 3, dc in same st, [hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, ch 3 (do not sk any sts), 2 dc in next st] 3x, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, ch 3, sl st to top of ch 3, turn. <48 sts, 4 ch-3 sps>
Round 6: Sl st into ch-3 sp, ch 1, turn, sc in same sp, [sc in next 12 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sp] 3 times, sc in next 12 sts, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to first sc. <56 sts, 4 ch-2 sps>
Pm in 8th sc on the bottom side. Turn. Proceed to Bib Row 2.
Part 2: Bib Rows
This section is worked in rows along 3 sides of the 5-Petal Flower Granny Square until your bib section is 1/6 of your overbust measurement, or your desired width between straps. The 4th unworked side becomes the neckline.
Rows are numbered according to the 6-Day Crochet stitch pattern. Start with Row 2 and work in increments of 3 rows, ending after either Row 4 or 7.
Before your last sc row, instead of turning your work, ch 1, rotate 90˚ and work sc across neckline working into sides of sts and across sc in top of 5-Petal Flower Granny Square, sc in last st, rotate and proceed to either Row 4 or 7. (See image above.)
Bib Row 2: Sl st into ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp. [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to 2 sts before corner, sk 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to st before marked sc, dc3tog, sk marked sc, dc3tog, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to 3 sts before corner, sk 3, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to last 2 sts, sk 2, 2 dc in last st/ch 2 sp. Turn.
Bib Row 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each sp to center, dc3tog in center sp between 2 dc3tog, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-3 sp, 3 dc each sp to end, 2 dc in top of ch 3. Turn.
Bib Row 4: If this is your last row, see note above. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st, [sc in each st to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sp] twice, sc in each st to end, 2 sc in top of ch 3. pm in center sc on bottom side. Turn.
Bib Row 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, [dc in each st to corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp] twice, dc in each st to last, 2 dc in last st. Turn.
Bib Row 6: Ch 3, dc in same st, [dc in each st to corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in ch-3 sp] twice, dc in each st to last, 2 dc in last st. Turn.
Bib Row 7: If this is your last row, see note above. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st, [sc in each st to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sp] twice, sc in each st to end, 2 sc in top of ch 3. pm in center sc on bottom side. Turn.
After last Bib Row (either 4 or 7), do not turn. Proceed to Strap.
Part 3: Strap (Worked in Rounds)
Strap setup: Continuing from last row (either 4 or 7), insert hook into the first sc on the top side of the 5-Petal Flower Granny Square, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through one loop, yo and pull through both loops, first fsc made. Continue to fsc until strap reaches desired length, ensuring that the total number of stitches from the bottom corner of the square, up the side, across the strap, and down the other side to the next corner sp (excluding the bottom of the square) is a multiple of 3 + 2 excluding the corner sps. Taking care not to twist, join with a sl st to first sc. Do not turn.
Note on fit: The loop formed by the strap (scs worked across neckline in the last bib row + fscs) should fit around your head measurement, plus any desired ease. The more ease, the longer your strap, and the lower your neckline will sit. Recommended ease is 2-4” (5-10cm).
Work 3 or 6 of the following rounds for desired strap width, beginning with either Round 2 or 5 depending on where you ended the Bib Rows. If you ended the Bib Rows at Round 7, begin the Strap Rounds on Row 2. If you ended the Bib Rows on Round 4, begin on Row 5.
Strap Round 2: If starting with this round, you may have to sl st 1 or 2 to start in a stitch that is a multiple of 3 from the corner. Ch 3, 2 dc in same st. [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to corner, sk 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to st before marked sc, dc3tog, sk marked sc, dc3tog, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to one st before corner, sk 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] around the entire strap, sk 2, join with sl st to top of ch 3.
Strap Round 3: Sl st in next 2 sts and sp between 3 dc, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each sp to dc3tog, dc3tog bet 2 dc3tog, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each sp around, join with sl st to top of ch 3.
Strap Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sps. Join with sl st to first st.
Strap Round 5: Ch 3, dc in each st around, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sps. Join with sl st to ch 3.
Strap Round 6: Ch 3, dc in each st around, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sps. Join with sl st to ch 3.
Strap Round 7: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sps. Join with sl st to first st. pm in center sc in bottom side.
When Strap is the desired width, end with Round 4 or 7. Fasten off. Proceed to Side Body Section.
Part 4: Side Body
Mark the strap on each side where you would like the underarm openings to begin. The marked stitch on each side should be a multiple of 3 + 2 from the bottom corner. Keep st markers in place until the Part 7: Edge.
*Note on fit: The Side Body can begin anywhere from slightly above the neckline to approximately 1/3 of the way down from the top/midpoint of the strap. The higher you start the side body, the more coverage you will have along the side bust area, which may be desirable anyone looking for a little more support. Once the side body is complete, it may look like the halter top is bunching with excess fabric in the underarms. This will be fixed with decreases along the side body in Part 7: Edge. Trust the process!
This is a great time to try on your work to determine the best fit.
Join with a slip stitch at either mark and work sets of 3 rows in sequence following the last round you completed. If you ended the Strap Rounds at Round 7, begin the Side Body on Row 2. If you ended the Strap Rounds on Round 4, begin on Row 5.
Side Body Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc in first st), [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to corner, sk 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to st before marker, dc3tog in st before marker, sk marked st, dc3tog in next st, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to corner, sk 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to last 3 sts, sk 2, dc in last st. Turn.
Side Body Row 3: Ch 3, sk first sp, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each sp to dc3tog, dc3tog in sp bet 2 dc3tog, 3 dc in each sp to corner, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each sp to last, sk last sp, dc in top of ch 3. Turn.
Side Body Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, sk 1, [sc in each st to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sp] twice, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sk 1, sc in last st. Turn.
Side Body Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc in first st), sk 1, [dc in next and each st to corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sp] twice, dc to last 2 sts, sk 1, dc in last st. Turn.
Side Body Row 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc in first st), sk 1 , [dc in next and each st to corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sp] twice, dc to last 2 sts, sk 1, dc in last st. Turn.
Side Body Row 7: Ch 1, sc in same st, sk 1, [sc in each st to corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-3 sp] twice, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sk 1, sc in last st. Pm in center sc in bottom side. Turn.
Continue these rows until your top reaches the desired length and is approximately 2/3 of your waist measurement, ending on Row 4 or 7. If ending on row 4, fasten off. Proceed to Side Extension Rows.
Part 5: Side Extension Rows
Begin Extension Rows picking up in sequence from where you left off on the Side Body Rows. If you ended the Side Body on Row 7, turn your work and continue on to Side Extension Row 2. If you ended the Side Body on Row 4, join your yarn, and work Side Extension Row 5.
Side Extension Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc in first st), [sk 2, 3 dc in next st] to corner, sk 2, 2 dc in last sp/st. Turn.
Side Extension Row 3: Ch 3, 3 dc in each sp to last sp, dc in last sp. Turn.
Side Extension Row 4: Ch 1, sc3tog, sc in each st to end. Turn.
Side Extension Row 5: If this is your first row of the side extension, join at the bottom edge of the top in the corner sp. Ch 3, dc in each st to last 3 sts, dec dc3tog over last 3 sts. Turn.
Side Extension Row 6: Ch 2 and dec dc2tog over next 2 sts (counts as dec dc3tog) dc in each st to end. Turn.
Side Extension Row 7: Ch 1, sc to last 3 sts, sc3tog over last 3 sts. Turn.
Continue in pattern for one side until you have 8 sts left. Proceed to Tie before fastening off.
Part 6: Tie
Continuing in row sequence from where you left off, Work Tie Rows for approximately 6” (15cm).
Tie Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next st, sk 2, 3 dc in next st, sk 2, 2 dc in last st. <7 sts> Turn.
Tie Row 3: Ch 3, 3 dc in each of next 2 sps, dc in last st. <8 sts> Turn.
Tie Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, sc in top of ch 3. Turn.
Tie Row 5: Ch 3, dc in each st to end. Turn.
Tie Row 6: Ch 3, dc in each st to end. Turn.
Tie Row 7: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, sc in top of ch 3. Turn.
Once the tie is approximately 6” long. Proceed to rows 5b-7b, regardless of which row you last completed.
Row 5b: Ch 3, [dec dc2tog, dc] 2x, dc in last st. <6 sts> Turn.
Row 6b: Ch 3, dec dc2tog twice, dc in last st. <4 sts> Turn.
Row 7b: Ch 1, sk 1, sc3tog. <1 st>
Fasten off. Repeat Side Extension and Tie on second side. Do not fasten off on the second side. Proceed to Edge.
Part 7: Edge
Round 1: Ch 1 and rotate work 90˚, sc around the entire top, working into sides of the rows on the Ties and Side Body and Extensions, and working into the sts on the Strap and along the bottom. Join with sl st to first st.
*Note on fit: If you planned for more coverage or are seeing any bunching from in the Side Body section, replace sc with [sc2tog dec, sc] along the Side Body and Extension rows only. This is a good time to try on the top and mark how much fabric needs to be shaped/gathered.
Round 2: [Ch 2, sk 2, sc in next st] around the top, sl st into first ch-2 sp.
Round 3: Ch 1, 6 sc in first ch-2 sp, [sc 1 in next ch-2 sp, 6 sc in next ch-2 sp] around, sl st to first sc.
Fasten off. Weave in all ends and block.
Thank you for reading, and I hope you enjoyed making this pattern! Betty and I would love to see your progress and finished work. Tag us @jacqofyarns and @bettymcknit on IG and TikTok, using the hashtag #6DayHalter.
Special thanks to our testers who helped bring this pattern to life:
